extending the season
22 November 2014, by gj
There are a number of items you may be recycling that can save you some money when it comes to indoor growing.
You can start seeds in a lot of clean containers, such as:
1) Yogurt Cups
2) Plastic produce containers
3) Empty toilet paper rolls
4) Likewise, scaled down paper towel rolls
5) Aluminum cans, be careful cutting these
6) Tin cans from canned soup or veggies
7) Milk cartons
8) Wax cartons such as for orange juice
9) Disposable cups such as solo cups
10) Other food grade plastic containers such as tofu tubs, guacamole, and ready to eat food trays
The main thing to remember is that you need some form of drainage holes. This is easy enough to do in plastic with a scissors or sharp knife. Use caution of course.
For metal containers hammering a nail through them in a few places should do the trick.
Keep in mind you need enough room for the plants to be able to establish their root systems. We would say no less than 3 inches.
You can aid germination by covering containers with (11) recycled plastic sandwich type bags, as shown above. You can see a tiny seedling just sprouting, surrounded by water droplets. This creates a green house effect, keeping your seeds moist until they sprout.
And when that happens, there is one more way to upcycle using a sharpie marker. (12)
Don’t tell me you’ve been getting rid of free plant markers.
13.) When you transplant, you can still use some of the larger food containers, 5 gallon buckets, as well as reuse pots from plants you have purchased. Again, be sure all containers are clean and have drainage.
Categories: all about seeds, extending the season, How to Grow
16 November 2014, by gj
And so it begins
When it comes to larger financial decisions, my husband and I hold off unless we both agree. Usually, when one person doesn’t want to spend the money, the other one finds creative ways to talk him into it.
And so it was with an unheated room that would be a great place to not only start seedlings, but also to grow food through the winter.
“You would have to make it worth it,” he said, not really wanting an increase in a utility bill.
To a gardening addict, just the activity itself is worth it.
“Like how?” I asked.
“Well, if you grew tomato plants and sold them, that would be good.”
Hmmm, that was part of the plan but that would be months away yet.
“How about having fresh tomatoes and herbs all year?” I suggested, appealing to the cook in him.
“And hot peppers?” he asked.
Let the growing commence.
Here are some of the best veggies to grow indoors:
1. Carrots- small round types such as Parisienne.
2. Tomatoes- romas, Tiny Tom or patio
5. Hot peppers
7. Garlic chives
8. Meyer lemons
9. Snow peas
11. Watermelon- small types such as sugar baby
12. Fruit trees on dwarf tree stock
Note there are a number of fruiting trees that are available grafted to dwarf root tree stock, far too many to list.
Categories: container gardening, extending the season, garden projects, The Experiments
14 November 2014, by gj
The only snow that got in was when I lifted the cover.
There are a number of ways you can get more growing time for your garden. Which you choose will depend on your budget, the size of your garden, and the extent to which you want to grow in the cold weather.
Here are a few to consider:
1. Cold Frames
Not only good for starting seedlings, cold frames can also house veggies and keep them protected enough to go farther into the winter. They are basically boxes, higher on one side that the opposite side, with glass or plastic hinged tops. The clear panels let light into to warm up the interior. Tops can be kept ajar when the day temperatures are still warm. Cold frames can get buried in snow; but if it isn’t too deep, it can actually help insulate the boxes.
2. Low tunnels
These can be made by bending PVC pipe or heavy wire into an inverted U-shape. This is then covered in plastic, again protecting the plants while letting the light through. To ventilate, the plastic must be pulled back and clipped.
Low tunnels are by design used only for shorter types of plants.
In large gardens, using portable low tunnels can help you protect different areas each year. This helps when you are rotating crops.
3. The Jones’ Garden System
Our favorite of course, the system acts similar to both a cold frame and low & high tunnels, allowing you to start seedlings as well as protect all sizes of plants in place.
It also grows more food in less space than a high tunnel, and is easier on the back than a cold frame. You can go farther into the cold with the help of heat tape.
The design makes it user friendly and we think the best solution for smaller gardens. To ventilate, simply move the top frame to the side.
4 & 5. High Tunnels and Greenhouses
Similar in that you can walk into them, these season extenders can help protect taller plants. They don’t hold the heat overnight as well as you might think, but do warm up fast during the day. They both do have the advantage that they can house a heating unit, and that you can be out of the cold weather while gardening.
High tunnels are usually ventilated by opening the door flaps. Greenhouse have ventilating panels as part of the design.
Read here about a high tunnel in Holland.
Do you use season extenders to get more from your garden?
Categories: extending the season, gardening, Keeping up with the Joneses
14 September 2014, by gj
Ready to ripen indoors.
Well, the weather forecasters are saying the F-word again.
Last year frost didn’t hit until the end of October, but we can’t always be that lucky.
Here are a few ways to handle your veggies with the cold temps coming:
1. Harvest them.
All of the heat loving crops, such as tomatoes, peppers, summer squashes and eggplant cannot handle the cold. Let them ripen indoors, use them up or preserve what you can for the winter.
2. Bring them indoors.
Potted plants can come inside and you get a wee bit more life from them. We have heard of people overwintering pepper plants and having them live for years.
We’re going to give it a try with one pepper plant and a transplanted eggplant.
We also have 3 tomato plants in the greenhouse, just to keep that fresh taste going longer. May as well, right?
Inserting the plastic panels for frost protection.
3. Cover them.
You can use something as simple as a sheet, or more elaborate like our garden system. This picture is of the sweet potato bed in the original test system. The longer we can keep them alive, the better the harvest will be.
4. Let them be.
Many veggies can handle the cold. All of the cold weather crops will survive a light frost. These include peas, most greens, carrots, turnips, rutabagas, parsnips, scorzonera and parsley.
If you’re not sure weather they will survive or not, one frost will answer that question. Just don’t allow the lettuce to fool you. It may look like it is dead in the morning, and then perk back up when the sun comes out.
5. Water them in.
This is something we have never tried, but it makes sense and is often recommended. Water your garden at ground level thoroughly before a frost is predicted. Presumably the wet soil will hold the warm temperatures longer, and release heat at the base of the plant, offering them some protection.
We have also heard, but have not tried, watering the garden again before the sun hits the plants, in effect washing the frost droplets off and helping the plants survive.
We have had sufficient success with the first four methods, so have not had to try the fifth.
Well, got to go harvest the grapes and make some juice.
Categories: extending the season, harvesting, techniques
19 July 2014, by gj
Peas Round #2
In the southern states a fall garden means starting tomatoes and such indoors, as the fall is the best growing time for them.
To our neighbors far north, planning for the fall would involve at least low tunnels and cold frames.
This post is for everyone in between.
Succession planting, or following one plant with another, is a great way to make the most of the space you have.
At this time of year, your peas have probably started to die off. You cold weather crops are either in or beginning to bolt. And anything over-wintered is likely going to seed.
This means some space will be available for crops that can take cooler temperatures.
Here in the zone 5/6 Jones’ garden we have already sown our second crop of peas. Early maturing garlic was followed by plantings of winter squash.
Squash catching up.
In between the rows of onions, which are starting to show signs they are ready to harvest, we have direct sown seeds of cabbage for a fall crock of sauerkraut.
As the potatoes are harvested, turnips and rutabaga seeds will go in. Where the spinach bolted, more carrot seeds were planted.
These are all veggies that can take the cold; and that is the main piece of information you need to know about following one crop with another.
The other things are what ‘days to maturity‘ actually means, and when your first frost in the fall is expected.
That way you can better time what you are planting to mature in the fall or even into winter.
When we first started gardening we used to think we could only grow food from the end of May until the frost in the fall.
Now we know we can garden pretty much all year ’round.
Experience really is the best teacher.
Categories: extending the season, gardening
14 December 2013, by gj
Fresh salad all winter.
You don’t need a hydroponic growing system to have fresh homegrown food even as the snow falls.
Some vegetables need less light than others, some do not need to be pollinated, and others don’t need the heat of summer.
Pretty versatile and undemanding, greens are easy to grow indoors and do not require much space or light. Since they are a ‘cut and come again’ crop, you can harvest what you need all winter long.
A kitchen window sill is a common place to find a few herbs growing. Since many grow like weeds, they are tough enough to have indoors.
Basil may be a little finicky, but others herbs like parsley are easy to have fresh all winter. Note that although dill can grow indoors, it can get pretty tall. Be sure to keep it pinched back for a more compact, bushier plant.
Add a few radishes.
Talk about fast and easy and radishes come straight to mind. The more compact varieties need very little room, and can be ready to enjoy in just a few weeks.
You can tuck a few garlic cloves in with your houseplants and use the tops for a fresh garlic taste throughout the off season. Keep them moist until they sprout, then just harvest the tops sparingly as they grow.
As another cool-weather crop, peas don’t need long warm days to grow. They pollinate themselves, so that is also not an issue.
Vining or pole type peas, as many varieties are, can be problematic indoors. Unless of course you have room for an 8 ft. tall plant.
Instead choose a bush variety, or as is the case with this cultivar from Agway, a pole type that only gets to be about 3 ft. high.
The final touch.
These are just a few of the plants that you can grow indoors because they do not need to be pollinated and require less light and heat.
Take a look at any seed catalog for more ideas, depending on how much room and time you have to dedicate to an indoor garden.
Now I must admit that other than the garlic greens, we have gotten away from growing indoors over the last few years.
Not for any particular reason.
After writing this post by request, our interest has been renewed.
So all we need to do is head out to the shed for a few planters and potting soil and we’ll be good to go.
After we put on our snow boots, that is.
Categories: extending the season, gardening, How to Grow
5 October 2013, by gj
It’s fall in the garden and the much anticipated growing season is coming to a close.
To be honest Dear Journal, I am somewhat glad.
We may still get a few red ones yet.
As much as I love gardening and being outside in the warm weather, there are so many things that need to be done indoors.
It takes cold temperatures and even snow to make me slow down.
Carrots, beets and kohlrabi.
Every weekend now focuses more on canning and dehydrating, and our menu is dictated by what is still coming in fresh.
Parsnips and sweet potatoes.
Don’t get me wrong Dear Journal, I’ve been looking forward to sweet roasted root veggies since this time last year. Mmmm!
And Mandolin is happy to have more choices for his stir frys. I swear he can eat them everyday.
Oriental cabbages, turnips and rutabagas.
I must admit I am a bit tired of beans, but that is my own fault for over planting.
Between what we have canned, pickled and dehydrated, we won’t need to grow many plants next summer. That’s for sure.
Pole beans still producing.
The cold holding closet is beginning to fill up as much as the pantry shelves, a good feeling to have when the snow arrives.
Dinner come January.
Winter storage crops.
Even the zucchini experiment proved to be successful. These two plants are going strong long after their counterparts have slacked off.
Oh, the enthusiasm of youth.
The late planted zucchini.
But we have been fortunate to have a few warmer than average days, so today at least I will still be in the garden.
Time to start cleaning up.
Oh and one other benefit of fall Dear Journal… we can enjoy all the squash flowers we want.
Categories: dear journal, extending the season
26 July 2013, by gj
Mid-summer planting of seeds and transplants to produce in the cooler months, also known as succession planting, is a great way to extend the harvest and get more from your garden space.
Carrots with beets and kohlrabi.
Most gardeners will tell you to not follow one crop with one from the same family.
I say Hogwash.
Partly because I like to say Hogwash but mostly because it’s true.
Where the taters were, now fall leaf cabbages and rutabagas.
If you have unlimited garden space, go ahead and rotate what you plant.
If you don’t, there’s just a few things you need to know.
The reasons gardeners recommend rotation in planting are:
3. nutrient loss to the soil
If the plants you pulled out were healthy, and you did not have a problem with pests, crop rotation isn’t needed.
Likewise, if you replenish the soil with fertilizer and a good compost, it will be a perfectly healthy environment to replant in.
The Kale bed.
Three simple words sum it up:
Remove – Replenish – Replant
You do need to learn what can be planted in the garden mid-summer. Here’s a good guide to help.
Peas replace peas mid-summer.
So we have peas coming up where the peas were before, and kale where there were other cole crops. No harm done.
The other crops were chosen based on what can be planted this time of year, and where there was room.
If we had to depend on crop rotation, a fall garden would be much more difficult than it needs to be.
Categories: extending the season, gardening, How to Grow, techniques
12 July 2013, by gj
The first are always the best.
Mandolin Jones jokes that two zucchini plants are “at least one too many.”
It’s true, there have been years where we have been inundated with zucchini. This year probably won’t be any different.
I tried to restrain myself, really.
So we only have three plants of Cashflow Zucchini in the garden, and three more of an heirloom type called Tatume.
What’s interesting about squash is that they usually produce male flowers for a while before they start producing females.
What’s odd is that the Cashflow did the opposite.
And since I want to save the heirloom seeds, the two types are nowhere near each other.
So when there were male blossoms on the Tatume and no females, and females on the Cashflow but no males, what needed to be done was obvious.
Now you see, we are trying to avoid GMO foods, and since much of the store zucchini is just that, we don’t buy it.
From fall until the garden produces, we don’t eat fresh summer squash.
It really makes you want it all the more…
never thought we’d be jonesin’ for zucchini.
So those male blossoms were plucked, and brought to the females.
Now we have two really good looking squash soon to be ready to harvest.
And thoroughly enjoyed.
While I have no intention of mentioning this to Mandolin, I will admit that if need be, I’d do it again.
Categories: extending the season, How to Grow, squash, techniques
6 July 2013, by gj
What a difference a few weeks can make in a garden.
The Fava beans are producing in abundance, the greens have bolted, and every seedling that has been in the ground more than a week has sprouted.
The tip of the fava iceberg.
Some of the corn really is ‘knee-high by the fourth of July’ as the farmers say, so that is right on track.
The squashes are beginning to flower, and we may have our first zucchini soon.
Beans are climbing and flowering, we already have a lot of yellow dry beans. Too early to pick yet, but happy to see them there.
Pole beans doing their thing.
The tomatoes have suffered a bit with the excessive rain we have had, but they are still flowering and the fruit that is already growing seems to be doing well. That first slice of a tomato always seems to be the best. This year it looks like it will be a Pink Oxheart that’s the earliest to ripen.
Ready to ripen?
The succession planting has begun, with beets following some early onions and beans going in where the first of the greens went to seed.
The red potatoes have finished flowering. When those beds open up there will be plenty of room for some fall crops.
Cauliflower, cabbage and broccoli seeds are germinating and should be ready to transplant right about the time the garlic comes in.
There’s taters under there.
Do you think the peas have seen their best days? Yep, looks like time to pull, replenish, and replant.
The leaning tower of peas.
Not all has been good though.
The voles got all the cantaloupe seedlings. The rabbits found a hole in the fence, and they chewed off the tops of the edaname and chick peas.
Of course they picked the plants that take the longest to grow, so although they are recovering (the plants, not the rabbits) we may not get a crop.
Chick peas on the rebound.
We’ll see Dear Journal, we’ll see… where there’s a gardener, there’s a way.
Categories: Addiction, dear journal, extending the season, gardening