25 October 2014, by gj
It’s spring in Australia, and just cool enough now that our southern neighbors are starting their fall gardens.
Areas north have already received snow.
Here in Northeastern Pa. it’s time to put most of the garden to bed for the winter.
cardboard keeps the weeds away
There are a number of ways you can do this, this is what’s happening here.
Towards the end of the summer, we place cardboard over harvested beds to keep out any weed seeds until the frost kills them off.
If we plan on tilling a bed, which is rare, we leave the cardboard on through the winter to also keep out the spring weeds, and till in the soil amendments when the weather gets warm again.
summer's mulch and fall leaves add organic matter naturally
Between the falling autumn leaves and the straw that was used as mulch, some beds have a head start on winter. For the ones that won’t be tilled, we begin with nature.
so that's where my knife went
We add more rough compost to the beds. It will break down further over time, and can just be worked into the soil if needed before planting.
spread rough compost on top of your soil
To top this off we add a nice layer of leaves. These will also break down over time.
Just remember that some of your furry friends may decide to make a home underneath.
leaves act as mulch
You wouldn’t want to find a little bunny’s nest there…
...or something worse.
Categories: faq's, gardening, techniques
14 September 2014, by gj
Ready to ripen indoors.
Well, the weather forecasters are saying the F-word again.
Last year frost didn’t hit until the end of October, but we can’t always be that lucky.
Here are a few ways to handle your veggies with the cold temps coming:
1. Harvest them.
All of the heat loving crops, such as tomatoes, peppers, summer squashes and eggplant cannot handle the cold. Let them ripen indoors, use them up or preserve what you can for the winter.
2. Bring them indoors.
Potted plants can come inside and you get a wee bit more life from them. We have heard of people overwintering pepper plants and having them live for years.
We’re going to give it a try with one pepper plant and a transplanted eggplant.
We also have 3 tomato plants in the greenhouse, just to keep that fresh taste going longer. May as well, right?
Inserting the plastic panels for frost protection.
3. Cover them.
You can use something as simple as a sheet, or more elaborate like our garden system. This picture is of the sweet potato bed in the original test system. The longer we can keep them alive, the better the harvest will be.
4. Let them be.
Many veggies can handle the cold. All of the cold weather crops will survive a light frost. These include peas, most greens, carrots, turnips, rutabagas, parsnips, scorzonera and parsley.
If you’re not sure weather they will survive or not, one frost will answer that question. Just don’t allow the lettuce to fool you. It may look like it is dead in the morning, and then perk back up when the sun comes out.
5. Water them in.
This is something we have never tried, but it makes sense and is often recommended. Water your garden at ground level thoroughly before a frost is predicted. Presumably the wet soil will hold the warm temperatures longer, and release heat at the base of the plant, offering them some protection.
We have also heard, but have not tried, watering the garden again before the sun hits the plants, in effect washing the frost droplets off and helping the plants survive.
We have had sufficient success with the first four methods, so have not had to try the fifth.
Well, got to go harvest the grapes and make some juice.
Categories: extending the season, harvesting, techniques
23 August 2014, by gj
It’s a jungle in there.
The Three Sisters of the Field is a traditional method for growing corn, squash and beans that was introduced to the pilgrims by the indigenous people of this country. It is gaining in popularity as more home growers learn about it.
Intercropping veggies in this way helps save space, cuts down on weeds, and the plants benefit each other.
It also looks wonderful.
There is just one wee problem.
Many gardeners don’t realize that this method is meant for dry beans, field corn, and winter squash.
If they plant sweet corn and pole beans, they will most likely run into this issue:
Playing hard to get.
The beans can wrap themselves around the corn cobs so tightly that harvesting them can be difficult.
There are two ways to avoid this issue:
1. Plant the traditional method by using field corn and dry beans. This way, the corn and beans, along with the squash, are all harvested about the same time.
2. Change it up with sweet corn but use bush or half runner beans. You won’t have any interference harvesting your corn.
Keep in mind that half runner beans can take up a lot of space; if you use them consider planting a bush type squash such as acorn or most summer squash.
One lesson we learned the hard way, that you don’t have to.
Categories: gardening, techniques
12 July 2014, by gj
David L. Green is a gentleman we e-met on Facebook, who has a great deal of knowledge about the pollination process. In many cases, we consider him to be a go-to expert.
On a few occasions, when a fellow gardener asked about lack of pollination on their tomato, eggplant and/or pepper plants, he advised them to use a tuning fork to help move the pollen about the flower and increase the plant’s chances of producing fruit.
What a fascinating concept.
Music is much more complex than you might think.
It has a mathematical component and also a physical side, and is part of the fiber of nature itself.
The most common tuning fork will vibrate at the same frequency as the note middle C, which is about 250 hz.
What is interesting is that this approximates the frequency of the beating of a bee’s wings.
You see, bees can help move pollen in 2 ways. First by getting it on themselves and then getting it on a female flower. This is the way a bee can help squashes for example, and the way most people think of bees helping.
The other way is the vibration caused by the beating of their wings.
In this way bees can help plants whose flowers have both male and female components, such as tomatoes, peppers and eggplants.
The vibration can help shift that pollen enough to get it on to the female reproductive part, helping it to develop fruit.
Of course this is not the only way to move pollen on these plants, the wind can help also as can other insects.
For those gardeners who live in an area where there is not a lot of breeze or bees, the tuning fork is a simple and successful solution.
Just whack it on something hard, and touch the fork to the flower’s stem.
Be the bee, so to speak.
Here’s an inexpensive one that we purchased:
Categories: gardening, plant problems, techniques
5 July 2014, by gj
Luffas’ tendrils grab onto anything.
There are some plants that grow vertically so naturally, that all you need to do is have a support nearby.
Cucumbers, pole beans and peas, and luffas are wonderful examples of edible plants whose system of tendrils helps them grow up just about anything.
And then there are plants, most notably tomatoes, that are not meant to grow vertically but usually are. Prettify much every gardeners supports their tomato plants in some way, be it a stake, a cage, the Florida weave, or an overhead system.
Supporting tomatoes helps keep those soft fruits from rotting and makes them a little bit less susceptible to bugs and disease.
The stems are hearty enough to handle the weight of the fruit.
Well, in most cases that is.
We did once see a picture of a tomato so large and heavy that it snapped the stem on the plant.
But that’s the exception not the rule.
There are other vining plants like tomatoes that can be grown vertically with just a little assistance.
Sugar baby melon happily hanging.
Melons are a vining crop as are many varieties of squash, particularly the winter squash but also some summer types.
In both cases there are two main ways the gardener can help their plants grow vertically.
The first is to be sure the structure to be used can support the combined weight of the ripe fruit.
In this regard it helps if the variety you plant produces a smaller fruit.
For example, a Moon and Stars watermelon might not be as good a choice as a Sugar Baby watermelon. As the name implies, Sugar baby produces one of the smallest melons and therefore is easy to grow vertically.
The other thing a gardener can do is to help support the fruit on the vine.
Like the very large tomato mentioned above, heavy fruit can easily cause stress and damage to the vine.
By using an airy fabric such as the mesh store bought onions or oranges come in, or a sheer nylon like pantyhose are made from, the gardener can help take some of the weight off the plant and put it onto the structure.
It is important that what is used will dry easily after a rain.
Tatume squash being supported.
Simply wrap the fruit in a sling-like fashion, and tie it to the support. This not only takes the weight off the plant, it gives the fruit plenty of room to grow.
If you do not have anything to use on hand, you can buy netting type fabric inexpensively wherever fabric is sold. Remember you can keep using it year after year.
Growing whatever you can vertically is a great way to get more from the space you have, and also help protect your plants from some critters.
And that’s a gardening win-win.
Here’s a wee bit more.
Categories: gardening, techniques
3 July 2014, by gj
Early light harvest of greens while zucchini heads up vertically.
Since you are reading this you are probably already a gardener, congrats!
Perhaps you have a lot of space that you would like to optimize, or maybe you just want to get more from a smaller area.
There are gardening techniques that have been around for thousands of years that can help you do just that.
25 corn plants with bush and pole beans
Intensive gardening is a technique that incolves planting veggies close together, even in the shade of one another, to get more from the space. Of course you will need to be diligent so as to not have disease issues, and to be sure all plants have the water and nutrients they need.
Succession planting allows you to replenish then refill up spaces as they open.
So you have pulled those early planted carrots, how much time do you have for another crop?
Growing vertically, from the typical peas and beans to the more unusual squash and melons adds even more bounty in the same space.
Keeping plants warm in early spring.
When you utilize season extenders like those pictured above, you can increase the quantity you harvest by as much as 50% here in the zone 5/6 area. The actual amount depends on your climate.
That’s a lot.
These pics are of the test model of a garden system we designed primarily for those in suburban areas, but with everyone in mind.
After 3 years of testing we found we can pretty much double our harvest by using the techniques mentioned above, as well as the built in critter protection.
10 tomato plants with basil below.
Now we don’t want to be a commercial on our blog.
If you would like to learn more, click here.
In the meantime, know that however much space you have, there are fun and really easy ways to make the most of that.
More veggies? Yeah…
You Can Grow That! is a collaborative effort by gardeners around the world who want to help everyone enjoy growing.
For more posts on other gardening topics, just click on the logo above.
Categories: gardening, techniques, you can grow that
24 June 2014, by gj
Depending on your particular climate, there are many non-perennials that you need only plant once to harvest year after year.
Here in Zone 5/6, this is what we are working on:
These are biennial vegetables, meaning they produce roots and leaves the first year and flowers the next.
We overwintered our parsnips and after harvesting this spring, left a few to flower. We expect, as other gardeners have assured us, that the flowers will then turn to seed and grow more parsnips to be harvested next spring.
Cousins to parsnips, the same principle holds true. Carrots are more difficult to winter over, so we will heavily mulch just a few that will be left in the bed to see if we can pull it off. These methods are also a good way to collect seed, so if nothing else you can try that.
3. New Zealand Spinach
Not a true spinach, but one that is used the same way. This particular variety does not bolt as fast as spinach does, but when that happens it will also reseed.
We expect to see it coming up next spring as well.
4. Tomatillos and Chokecherries
Similar but not the same, these two relatives of tomatoes also will reseed and offer you many new plants for next season. We are going to cover this bed with plastic late in the winter, to help them get a faster start.
“What??” you may be thinking.
At least, that was our reaction.
But many a gardener has told us that they bring in a potted sweet pepper plant before the frost, and store it in a cool room or basement.
They say it goes into a dormancy period, and will spring back to life when the weather warms back up.
So this we had to see for ourselves, and have a beautiful Lady Bell just for that purpose.
Of course the results of all these examples, that others swear by, will be shared here with you.
Why not give some a go?
You might be pleasantly surprised.
Categories: perennials, techniques
31 May 2014, by gj
Photo by Sally Getz of part of her garden.
There are times when no sooner does a seed get planted than the battle with critters begins.
My Facebook friend Sally Getz of Colorado had been facing an annual mass seed theft in her garden until she came up with the fabulous idea.
She purchased cheap clear plastic cups from a dollar store.
After planting and watering her seeds, she dug in a cup over each one, bringing more soil around the cup to hold it in place and not let the winds blow it over.
She kept them watered as needed.
Not only did the cups protect the seeds, they acted as mini-cloches to keep the seeds warm and moist.
Of course this helped them sprout sooner.
Sally is one really determined gardener, she did this for over 800 seeds.
No replanting this year and we hope it will be her best garden ever
You grow girl!
Categories: gardening people, places & things, techniques
27 May 2014, by gj
Baby luffas happy in their environment.
1. Plant in good soil.
With the possible exception of wasabi, few plants want to ‘get their feet wet’. Be sure to add plenty of compost and organic matter to your beds. This helps insure they will drain better. If you plant in a low lying area, try making mounds of soil to plant in, allowing excess water to collect away from the roots.
2. Don’t plant too soon, or too late.
Some veggies like the cold, such as peas and greens. Most beans however will actually rot if the soil is not warm enough for them. Similarly, plants such as lettuce and basil will bolt, or go to seed, if the weather gets too hot. A simple way to remember is to make a time chart of what to plant when.
3. Keep them moist until established.
This is true for both direct sewn seeds and transplants. The weather tries to do this naturally with spring showers, but it may not be enough. Once you can tell your transplants have settled in, just water as needed. When the majority of your direct sewn seeds are up, do the same for them.
4. Give them room to grow.
Thinning is a bother, but not thinning makes things much worse. Although we admit to planting closer together then is normally recommended, we still thin our carrots, beets and greens especially. Not thinning carrots will; have a negative impact on root development; not thinning beets can be disastrous to the entire crop. Thinning can be fun in a way, since in these 3 cases you can eat the plant tops you pull.
5. Keep them weed free.
Probably the least favorite chore of gardeners, weeds are better to prevent than deal with. Both mulch and landscaping plastic can help in this regard. Planting in containers is also a good way for many plants to grow with less threat of weeds getting in their space. Where possible, intercropping is a good way to help prevent weeds. We scatter basil seeds at the feet of our tomatoes, thinning as needed after they come up. The tomatoes offer the basil some shade in return, delaying bolting. It’s a nice symbiotic relationship.
6. Finally, know what you are growing.
A zucchini isn’t just a zucchini. Did you know some do well growing vertically? And a bean isn’t just a bean, either. A fava bean prefers the cold, a green bean hates it. Most of the information you need should be on the seed packet, but if you are growing something new, make a few notes.
Since you’re here reading this, you are obviously an informed gardener.
Kudos to you for that, and your plants will thank you!
Intercropping helps the health of some veggies.
Categories: gardening, techniques
20 May 2014, by gj
A wee bit of crossing.
Corn silks get pollen on them that is carried by the wind from the tassels of corn in the area. It may be from the same plant or from plants a distance away.
If you are growing multiple kinds of corn, or a nearby neighbor has plants, you may want to insure you get what you expect.
There are a few ways to do this.
If it is just you growing more than one variety, time the seeding so that they don’t mature at the same time. If both varieties mature at 90 days, for example, plant them about 2-3 weeks apart.
If one variety matures at 80 days and the other at 100, it is safe to plant them at the same time.
If you have a lot of land, you can simply plant them apart. I have read they need to be anywhere from 150 ft. to a mile apart. The corn in the picture above were about 6 ft. apart and generally upwind from a red dry corn. You can see there was a little cross pollination on the ear to the right, but it did take place.
If you are really into maintaining your seed supply to be true by preventing cross pollination, watch this video to learn how.
We’re going to do this with our glass gem corn, to keep the seeds pure. There is a bed of dry corn about 120 ft. away, and we want to be sure they don’t cross.
And, well… also because nerdy stuff like this is fun.
Categories: corn, techniques